Katunskiy (30.07-2.08.2013)

DSCN8317 bis cpy  cover photo DSCN8193  It was a rainy night but the light at dawn was promising. DSCN8191  The park was not a reservation but rather 60'000 ha in which the native Altai people could express their identity: better to be a native person in the Soviet Union than in the USA DSCN8190  As in most Russian accommodations, there was a place where guests could cook their own food and consume it.
DSCN8192  This was a great kitchen with hot water. DSCN8194  The dining room was in a teepee shaped wooden house DSCN8195  that looked out on the picnic table where we had tea yesterday. DSCN8197  Natalia and Irena, the grandmother professors, getting the food organized
DSCN8198  Where we had cell service (quite frequently) we made good use of online translation programs DSCN8199  We drove 120+ km west before entering the town of Ust-Kan, established in 1876 (note the horse motif, just as in Naryn).. DSCN8200  and in some ways, still wating for the 20th century (though once again, there is electricity) DSCN8201  The neighboring town of Kan-Ozi has a totem pole on its shield.  I felt that if I turned a corner I might find myself in the museum at Victoria, B.C.
DSCN8203  local folks headed down to the river DSCN8204  free range cows on the road south and then south-east to Ust-Koksa DSCN8206  beautiful meadows in the stream bottoms DSCN8207  hard to tell if the road was in process of being improved or just degrading on its own
DSCN8210  would-be ranches across the valley DSCN8211  local folks still use horses for transportation DSCN8212  but cell phones for commuication DSCN8215  wetland
DSCN8216  distant town and stream DSCN8217  free ranging cows bring their act right into town DSCN8219  the towns lose some of their charm as one goes through them DSCN8220  traditional form and Soviet power pole
DSCN8222  passing through Sougash DSCN8223  in something like 1950 DSCN8225  oat field and tree DSCN8230  yellow but not mustard
DSCN8231  long valley with high plateau-like ridges DSCN8233  fields DSCN8234  fields and forest DSCN8235  forest patterns
DSCN8236  we bunked at the best hotel in town. This was the back yard abutting the Katun River DSCN8237  The owner (who was also the Director of the Reserve that we were visiting) was building this (traditional?) log structure. DSCN8238  I had the De-Luxe room DSCN8239  with wifi
DSCN8241  and indoor plumbing DSCN8243  and dope outside (never figured this out...) DSCN8244  The rest of the town was somewhat less developed DSCN8247  Here was our first glance of the Super Mobile, a Russian knockoff of the M-B Unimog
DSCN8248  and this was where we were going - Katunskiy Reserve. DSCN8249  This was the Reserve's administration building-I have concluded from this and other evidence that the A-frame is a Russian motif DSCN8250  The back of the Super Mobile DSCN8252  Alexander, the Reserve Director, decided to be the driver
DSCN8253  In the back, Natalia, Tatiana and Galia DSCN8254  Andrei, chief ranger for this part of the reserve in front of a fence for a red deer ranch DSCN8255  We picked up a new member - Palia from Mosco - who was in Ust-Koksa for a year making a film DSCN8256  IN her tight black pants, designer top and extensive make-up she was an unlikely addition!
DSCN8257  Tatiana, the science officer for the Reserve, moved here from Moscow 12 years ago and loves it. DSCN8260  The mountains ahead DSCN8261  Palia documenting DSCN8263  we are parked here waiting for the Super Mobile to un-vapor lock.
DSCN8264  It looks good but seems to be less than the sum of its appearances DSCN8265  It has a four cylinder engine amidship DSCN8266  A herd of mares, very pregnant, and colts came to investigate DSCN8267  as Palia filmed, they decided that we were less interesting than they thought
DSCN8268  Just a bit later as we were rolling over ruts I heard a distinct "ping" as of shearing steel, and Alexander lost his steering DSCN8269  While waiting for the next step, the ladies made lunch DSCN8270  sure enough, a pivot in the steering had sheared off DSCN8273  Alexander radio'd ahead and ordered some pack horses down from the station
DSCN8274  and we took off on foot toward the lakes DSCN8276  It was a jolly time at the start! DSCN8277  Up through the meadows DSCN8279  but soon we found that the road was all torn up ("no road, just directions")
DSCN8282  the horses soon seemed to have a lot of advantages DSCN8283  there is a veritable industry of carting tourists to the lake with these 4WD vehicles DSCN8287  but they really make a mess of the place DSCN8291  They sink in deep
DSCN8294  and make it very hard for us pedestrians DSCN8295  Because we had no vehicle we had to ford streams DSCN8297  Irena crossed using her hiking shoes DSCN8298  Natalia rolled up her cuffs but also wore her hiking shoes
DSCN8299  but they made it! I was given a pair of rubber boots which protected my feet but as they were rather short they filled completely with water. DSCN8301  Palia, in her Russian Army boots and tight pants (and camera bag), tried to cross on a log that was high above the stream. But it was too high... DSCN8302  and she crossed the river after removing her pants, without any foot protection ( I was trying to shuttle my rubber boots back to her), carrying valubles in each hand! DSCN8305  We finally arrive at the end of the first lake
DSCN8307  but our destination is the far end of the second lake, the outlet of which you can see in the distance DSCN8309  Coleman camping is quite popular in Russia DSCN8311  The trail along the first lake was awful! Natalia was squishing along in her wet shoes DSCN8313  The view from the second lake
DSCN8314  mountains DSCN8315  glaciers DSCN8316  summits DSCN8317  reflections
DSCN8317 bis  reflections 2 DSCN8318  it feels like wilderness DSCN8319  reflections 3 DSCN8320  we await the boat that will take us the length of the second lake
DSCN8322  silly me, I thought that it would be a power boat! DSCN8324  The Good Ship Lollipop shoves off with six passengers DSCN8328  smoke rises from the campers at the lake edge DSCN8330  Irena, Palia, and Natalia
DSCN8331  reflection 4 DSCN8332  reflection 5 DSCN8338  droplets and hand made oars DSCN8340  the Ranger Station at last!
DSCN8342  and so we set up around the smoking cooking fire, the living room for the next few days DSCN8343  Galia starts cooking with Natalia and Oleg DSCN8346  The common table near the fire DSCN8348  the evening's soup with drying shoes
DSCN8349  the next morning Galia, Andrei and Oleg are still around the fire DSCN8351  smoke wafting DSCN8352  checking out the tea DSCN8353  my coffee, biscuits and "waffli"
DSCN8354  the trusty Ranger horses DSCN8355  Groups of hikers came through, headed into the heart of the Reserve DSCN8356  Everyone's pack was huge! DSCN8357  Galia, Oleg and I set off a dead run it seemed up the valley in order to retrieve data loggers set out a year or two ago.
DSCN8358  It would be a very long day, and a very wet one DSCN8360  The meadows were very wet and streams ran everywhere DSCN8363  Sometimes there were bigger streams coming out of side valleys DSCN8364  the falls upstream, as seen luckily from a bridge
DSCN8365  It was beautiful if you could take your eyes off the muddy slippery trail long enough to look around. DSCN8366  Vista DSCN8369  flower and pollinator DSCN8370  After running up valley about 6 km it was time to starting fording streams. This was Oleg's solution
DSCN8371  An old snow guage from the Soviet times when they read them from helicopters DSCN8372  Oleg starting acoss, with Galia in front DSCN8374  the water was fast, deep and cold. I nearly dunked here but instead merely jammed my fingers in the stream bed DSCN8376  Just when you think that no one's been here before you stumble on tumble down log cabin where a famous geologist summered with his family in the 60's!
DSCN8378  After slogging for a km through soggy streamside we emerged on a talus slope to start the climb toward the glacier and the data loggers DSCN8379  Oleg starting up DSCN8380  Above the talus was a very steep slope covered with deep herbaceous vegetation and above that a forest on a rocky spine DSCN8384  When Oleg finally arrived, he said that he wasn't feeling well and that Galia and I should go on without him. I objected but he said that there were bears in the area and he didn't want Galia to go alone.
DSCN8386  So Galia and I headed further up the moment and indeed we saw bear sign. DSCN8387  The first temperature data logger was in this tree at the top of the second talus slope. DSCN8388  We head quite a view toward the third Multa Lake DSCN8389  The glacier was however still quite a ways above us. It was 2:30 PM and we had already been going strong for 5.5 hours. Galia said that we didn't have time to get to the next data logger.
DSCN8391  I was fine with this decision,and we started back down this slope of large and mostly stable boulders DSCN8393  It took a while to negotiate this DSCN8394  The lake below DSCN8397  Siberian stone pines
DSCN8398  Hard to capture in a photo but this was the route we had made up through the deep and slippery veg DSCN8399  Galia disappearing into the high grass! DSCN8400  a picturesque larch DSCN8402  a old growth Siberian stone pine on a good site in the valley bottom. These forests merit Jerry Franklin's attention
DSCN8495  The forest floor is a spongy mass of mosses and ground covers over decaying wood debris that still cracks as you walk over it. It is amazing - like walking on a mattress! DSCN8404  Although not in Switzerland, there is a giant cross on this tree. DSCN8407  We have crossed our streams and are now headed back down the long valley DSCN8408  meadow vegetation
DSCN8410  summits and stone pines DSCN8411  summits, stone pines and herbs DSCN8413  big mountains DSCN8414  deep greenery!
DSCN8415  the valley is a series of moraine complexes creating a series of wetlands DSCN8416  finally we reach a bridge - only 5 km more to go! DSCN8418  evening light DSCN8419  a look back
DSCN8420  our colleagues, pretty much where we left them DSCN8426  I bunked in a log cabin DSCN8427  the door to my cozy little room DSCN8422  with a desk and a solar powered lamp
DSCN8423  the mattress was a bit thin, so like an Indian home stay DSCN8425  but I had a little stove and lots of clothes line DSCN8428  and a front deck DSCN8433  lumber milled on site, no doubt
DSCN8434  log cabin joinery DSCN8431  barbeque for dinner DSCN8432  Russians like Army Surplus. The cushions are a real innovation DSCN8435  Firewood and saddle
DSCN8438  stand-alone sink DSCN8439  the inside of the Ranger Station - tidy! DSCN8440  the inside of the banya DSCN8441  more firewood, right to the rafters
DSCN8443  As we left, everyone wanted a group photo. DSC01509  One result DSCN8444  The monster packs of my colleagues were loaded on a horse but I carried my stuff DSCN8445  By now the trails had dried out and it was very pleasant
DSCN8446  We hiked down the eastside of the second lake DSCN8447  while others availed themselves of the boat. Palia rowing was certainly just for a short time and just for bragging rights! DSCN8450  The outlet from the lake was between us and the trail DSCN8452  and so we waited for the boat to take us across the lake
DSCN8453  The ranger has a novel way of rowing DSCN8454  Oleg tries it but DSCN8456  the Ranger quickly displaces him DSCN8457  Galia's hair clip: how she stayed so clean  is a mystery to me!
DSCN8458  Natalia DSCN8462  We bide adieu to the Ranger who promptly started bailing out his craft DSCN8467  We walked down to the first lake DSCN8469  Will this tree survive!
DSCN8470  This lake reminded me of Fallen Leaf or maybe Donner Lake DSCN8471  Flower art DSCN8472  Flower art DSCN8473  Flower art
DSCN8474  Flower art DSCN8475  Flower art DSCN8501  Flower art DSCN8477  as we approached the end of the lake we saw more tourists
DSCN8478  not surprising given what a beautiful day it was! Maybe it was all worth it... DSCN8479  The path along the end of the lake DSCN8480  from whence we came DSCN8481  the Coleman Campers were still there
DSCN8482  and there were a lot of vehicles at the trail head, including the Super Mobile! DSCN8484  A true parking lot DSCN8486  4WD clubs in Russia DSCN8487  some colleagues has come up with the Super Mobile and were headed into the Reserve with the obligatory enormous packs
DSCN8488  the slight fellow in the middle will carry this pack which probably weighs 60 -70 pounds! DSCN8490  The steering linkage of the Super Mobile has been repaired somehow DSCN8491  but the driver didn't make very good choices I thought DSCN8492  here he has regained the main road after almost wedging the vehicle against a tree
DSCN8493  then he left the main track again and got totally mired down in this bog. DSCN8494  The wheels are nearly 5 feet high and he was just spinning them in the mud, descending lower and lower DSCN8497  he finally used the winch to extract himself.Luckily there was a well-anchored tree nearby DSCN8499  Palia got it all on her video cam
DSCN8503  But then we started to lose air from the rear tires. This was a sign... DSCN8504  of a crack in the suspension. At the next mudhole, the left rear wheel snapped right off! DSCN8505  We took our bags out of the back and started walking again. DSCN8506  It was a beautiful day for a walk
DSCN8507  but it was a long way back to town DSCN8510  After awhile we were rescued by a Russian Jeep and an UAZ, who had been convoked by the Super Mobile driver via radio DSCN8511  Two different conceptions: USSR and Russia - the drivers of the rescue vehicles DSCN8513  The drivers dropped us off in the town of Multa which was accessible to our pavement queen minibus
DSCN8514  There was electricity and thus ice cream bars! DSCN8515  Rural Russia DSCN8518  Rustic DSCN8519  Somewhat more formal but the lawn needs help
DSCN8520  house deco and lawnmover DSCN8521  the ag economy is relatively advanced DSCN8523  bring in the hay for the winter from the meadows DSCN8522  Montana circa ??